Sorry... needed to point out the consistent mis-spelling of terroir. (I know, I am a smart ass)
I suspect that we are in the midst of a very difficult period for true terroir driven wines.. and I think the reasons are numerous. The result, an inevitable convergance of style where only the very top sites and blends will seperate themselves from the rest.
By way of example, a couple years ago I organized a panel discussion and tasting on behalf of the Alexander Valley Winegrowers, held for the Society of Wine Educators at their annual conference. The tasting was entitled "Discerning the Differences: A Tasting of Napa Valley and Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon." Twelve wines were tasted blind, six from each AVA. Among the wines tasted were Jordan, Silver Oak (both AV and NV), Swanson, Geyser Peak Kumelis Vineyard Designate, Simi Landslide.... 4 winemakers and 1 viticulturist, as well as one prominent MS and Steve Heimoff, Wine Writer at Wine Enthusiast sat on the panel. Each person in attendance was simply asked to taste the wine then try to identify it as Napa or Alexander Valley. We then, by show of hands, saw how well we could "discern" the differences between the two regions.
Getting to the point.. only one of the twelve wines was definitively selected as being of its own AVA. The rest of the wines split the audience, nearly 50/50 each time. Both Silver Oak wines were mis-identified.
It was clear that no terroir driven similarity was evident among the wines selected. More attributable to style was whether the wine was hillside or mountain sourced as apposed to valley floor sourced. Heimoff noted that the results of this tasting were consistent with a tasting he hosted with a group of winemakers and he believed that the differences between regions were melting away. As other areas caught up to Napa Valley and the best sites for growing grapes in areas like Alexander Valley were planted and matured, the wines were stylistically beginning to converge.
As you have already mentioned, uniform farming practices is certainly another cause for convergance Michel Chapoutier talks about this when he sells the concept of Biodynamic farming. If most wineries use the same commercial fertilizers or employee the same cover crops or do any number of other things (I am out of my element talking about viticulture) then in essense you are taking away crucial elements of terroir and destroying site specificity.
Lets also not forget the effect of the winemaking community, the level in which they work together and share practices, in developing a local style that is often confused with terroir. Best example is Italy, where local practice has been codified into DOC law. Not hard to see how Brunello, with its long barrel aging requirements has a reputation for big, dry tannic wines, and how most attribute it to "terroir." Same might be said for the "Rutherford Dust" characteristic of Rutherford Bench Napa Valley Cabs, specially of the 70's and 80's... is this true terroir or is this simply uniform methods, clones, and vineyard maturity expressing itself?
I really hope terroir wins the day, as that is what I think wine is all about. Those are the wines I want to market, and more importantly, drink.
Are We Talking Small Dogs or Eco Systems...
Sorry... needed to point out the consistent mis-spelling of terroir. (I know, I am a smart ass)
I suspect that we are in the midst of a very difficult period for true terroir driven wines.. and I think the reasons are numerous. The result, an inevitable convergance of style where only the very top sites and blends will seperate themselves from the rest.
By way of example, a couple years ago I organized a panel discussion and tasting on behalf of the Alexander Valley Winegrowers, held for the Society of Wine Educators at their annual conference. The tasting was entitled "Discerning the Differences: A Tasting of Napa Valley and Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon." Twelve wines were tasted blind, six from each AVA. Among the wines tasted were Jordan, Silver Oak (both AV and NV), Swanson, Geyser Peak Kumelis Vineyard Designate, Simi Landslide.... 4 winemakers and 1 viticulturist, as well as one prominent MS and Steve Heimoff, Wine Writer at Wine Enthusiast sat on the panel. Each person in attendance was simply asked to taste the wine then try to identify it as Napa or Alexander Valley. We then, by show of hands, saw how well we could "discern" the differences between the two regions.
Getting to the point.. only one of the twelve wines was definitively selected as being of its own AVA. The rest of the wines split the audience, nearly 50/50 each time. Both Silver Oak wines were mis-identified.
It was clear that no terroir driven similarity was evident among the wines selected. More attributable to style was whether the wine was hillside or mountain sourced as apposed to valley floor sourced. Heimoff noted that the results of this tasting were consistent with a tasting he hosted with a group of winemakers and he believed that the differences between regions were melting away. As other areas caught up to Napa Valley and the best sites for growing grapes in areas like Alexander Valley were planted and matured, the wines were stylistically beginning to converge.
As you have already mentioned, uniform farming practices is certainly another cause for convergance Michel Chapoutier talks about this when he sells the concept of Biodynamic farming. If most wineries use the same commercial fertilizers or employee the same cover crops or do any number of other things (I am out of my element talking about viticulture) then in essense you are taking away crucial elements of terroir and destroying site specificity.
Lets also not forget the effect of the winemaking community, the level in which they work together and share practices, in developing a local style that is often confused with terroir. Best example is Italy, where local practice has been codified into DOC law. Not hard to see how Brunello, with its long barrel aging requirements has a reputation for big, dry tannic wines, and how most attribute it to "terroir." Same might be said for the "Rutherford Dust" characteristic of Rutherford Bench Napa Valley Cabs, specially of the 70's and 80's... is this true terroir or is this simply uniform methods, clones, and vineyard maturity expressing itself?
I really hope terroir wins the day, as that is what I think wine is all about. Those are the wines I want to market, and more importantly, drink.