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As you probably know by now, the countdown is on for Crush in Sonoma County. As I sit writing this, I can look out my window and look at the dark purple of Pinot Noir. There are nets over the vines to protect the fruit from birds, a sure sign that crush is right around the corner. You get the picture. But what you may not get is what crush TRULY means. If you aren't in the wine country now, let me try to get you the REST of the picture.

The shadows in September are a bit longer, as the sun sinks a bit farther to the south. I noticed this especially yesterday when the noontime sun was in my eyes. I can smell the coming of harvest in the dry air. Apples which have long fallen from the trees emit a sweet, ripe aroma of apple pie. It's getting darker earlier. And of course, football season has started and there is a hell of a wild card race going on in the National League! I always hope that the Giants last longer than crush! Dodger fans need not reply.

I travel to New York every September to visit restaurants, mailing list customers, maybe a Yankees game and this year, a James Beard dinner featuring Russian River Pinot Noir. There is nothing like Autumn in New York. Somehow the wine tastes better in the Fall. Our 2004 wines are just now starting to poke their heads out like an opposite hybernation. These wines are just getting ready for the holiday season, right around the corner.

But first, we need to pay attention to Crush. We need to stock the winery refrigerator with beer and food as the winery seems to buzzing around the clock. Michael Browne, Shane Finley and Tony Velebil are virtually unavailable for a couple of months as they emerse themselves in sixteen hour days, well into November. I intend on getting out to the winery myself, but we also have wine to ship and an office to upkeep, so I'll be there when I can.

I can't get out of here without mentioning the smell of harvest time in the wine country. Sweet grape juice on EVERYTHING dominates the air. But not just at the winery. Driving on just about any Sonoma County road, you will be accompanied by this unmistakable aroma. That same aroma invariably brings out the bees and hornets as they try to get in on the action. You get used to the stings after awhile, as crush just wouldn't be the same without a couple of welts.

So here we go. Summer's over and harvest is upon us. When we can, we'll get back to your questions on our crush. Or baseball. Or beer. Or anything Autumn.