I just spent a little time with a couple of winemakers from the Russian River Valley. Of course, I don't think of them as winemakers. I think of them as my friends. Not to name names, but a couple of weeks ago, John Holdredge of Holdredge Winery, Bob Cabral from Williams Selyem and I had a great time drinking Pinot, Zin, and anything else we could find. We found some Gaja and some 94 Warre's Port. Drank a 97 Rafanelli Zin, moved on to some Vision Cellars Pinot, a little Limerick Lane Zin from 1995, Matanzas Creek Merlot from 1996 and a couple others (hey, it's not always Pinot!). I won't go into details because frankly, I don't remember them. I CAN tell you that we had a great time. Authorities were notified. We were working, however. Uhh, research and development. Yeah, that's the ticket. R & D. But seriously, I write this because I am on a mission to share with everyone how special our corner of the world is. It is special not only because we get to have a little fun, but because it is this energy that is in every bottle of Russian River Pinot Noir.
Many people ask me, "Why do you think Russian River Pinot has become so popular?" My answer is always the same. In Sonoma County and particularly the Russian River Valley, we have a comeraderie that I have never seen before. There is an open exchange of winemaking technique and philosophy, unparrallelled by any other winemaking region I know. We are always learning from one another. On top of that, we just have fun. The group of newcomers to Russian River Pinot Noir production (of which I consider Kosta Browne a member) and the established mentors all seem to learn from each other. More importantly, it seems we all can get together for some of the best parties around. Don't get me wrong. We all work very hard. But hard work deserves some hard play, yes?
When I was in the restaurant business, a popular saying was, "The main ingredient is Love." Well, that seems to fit the Russian River Pinot Noir community. Passion and committment not only to Pinot Noir, but for our lifestyle here in the valley has driven quality in our craft. It's always great to be a part of a good team. Especially when we're having fun.
Loved reading about what you are doing in the RRV area. Wanted to ask what you thought the distinguishing factor was between a RRV Williams Selyem pinot vs. a RRV Kosta Browne pinot. Been on the Williams Selyem list for awhile, but have not had a opportunity to try a Kosta Browne pinot yet. Eagerly awaiting my first allocation in February.
Thank you
Hi Frank:
Wow, this is a tough one. I mention the comeraderie between us and Bob at WS and now I have to comment on KB vs WS?! Let me start here: I mentioned that the new guys (KB) learn so much from the mentors (WS). We still do. The beauty is that maybe we have something to offer WS as well. There are a few distinguishable differences in our barrel programs, as well as obvious differences in our vineyard sources. But those are common differences found in most Pinot producers. The fun part is figuring out YOUR preferences. I understand that you have not had the chance to have our wines yet, but I will say that when it comes to Pinot, I like all styles, as long as it is made soundly. If it helps, I think that if there is one thing that WS and KB have in common, it is that we want to get the best that the Pinot grape has to offer: intense flavors with elegant structure. As far as the nuances, I'll leave this for you to decide!
Hey Dan - nice piece! I've got a quick question for you. As more and more of the subtle micro climates are discovered and awarded subsequent AVA's within the RRV, will Kosta Browne be looking to develop more specialized Pinot's from these area's i.e. Green Valley? Are their any new and exciting vineyards or blocks that you are soon to release? We love the wines! Keep doing a great job.
Cheers!
Lando:
I love the question. I could go on and on. History and limited land availability have dictated that Old World regions like Burgundy have been mapped out and designated for centuries. Not only politically, but geologically as well. Soil types and micro climates have been well documented for hundreds of years. In California, we are just getting started. Appellations are getting more and more specific, especially in the areas where Pinot Noir is grown. So, to answer your question, yes, we are progressive in our vineyard sources. Examples are Kosta Browne acquisitions of Pinot Noir fruit from Keefer Ranch (Green Valley, as you mentioned), Rosella's and Garys' Vineyard from Santa Lucia, etc. That's the beauty of Pinot: So much to learn and so much to enjoy!!
I like your new blog! Good article about the Pinot community in the Russian River Valley... Wanted to know if you guys ever think about getting it on with the other big grape in the RRV, Zinfandel??? Might not be as sexy as Pinot, but the RRV is one of the BEST places for Zin, and with some savvy veterans to show the way like Martinelli's and Hartford Family, it might be another RRV community worth joining. Plus, I just want to see what you guys could do with some Zin grapes... Hope I get to find out!
Young:
Thanks so much for your note. I live in the heart of the Russian River Valley. From my front and back yards, I have a view of some of the best Russian River Zinfandel ranches. Saitone Ranch and Papera offered Deloach winery some fantastic old vine Zin back in that winery's hayday. It's tempting, with all of this fantastic Russian River Zinfandel around, to have a go at it. But I think our Pinots deserve ALL of our attention. Sure, we are making a bit of Syrah, but we have to put a limit on things! My background in wine goes back a long way, almost to where I don't remember. I was a young child. But then I became a sommelier and I not only honed my palate, but I also sharpened my sense of objectivity. I think that all varieties of wines have merit. But for now, it's all about the Pinot. And a little Syrah. Maybe someday Tempranillo. Or Zin. Sauv Blanc? Perhaps Cab. Never say never. ;-)
It's great for winelovers to know an open forum seems to exist in some areas of the winemaking world. I always abhored the idea of "secret recipes", and not being able to share your craft. It is proof positive the shared experience can create great things. By the way is Mac MacDonald ever in the group? He seems like he'd be a fun person to chit-chat with about war stories and techniques. Wish I was there.
Jon E
Jon:
Mac is right in there. He is one of the most colorful characters around, and he makes damned fine Pinot! He and Lil embody everything I was writing about. Talk about putting the Love in the bottle!
RRV Pinot
I have some 2001 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo for you, Bob and John when you come in April. I think it's great that you can all be friends and share in the knowledge and the love of wine. It never happens in the technology business!
Regards,
Mike